
With the launch of Street figter 4 and HD remix on PS3 (finally) I decided to complete work on a custom ps2 sanwa joystick..however after many soldering attempts after my ps2 joypad pcb refused to work
I am now attempting build of a wireless joystick for ps3.
Parts
1 sanwa ball stick ordered – gremlinsolutions
6 happ concave buttons – gremlinsolutions
2 happ convex buttons – gremlinsolutions
Cherry microswitchs – gremlinsolutions
4 countersunk bolts/washers/nuts - local hardware store
1 dvd storage box – from Debenhams
1 PS3 wireless control pad, came free with my machine
Tools
Phillips screwdriver
Superglue
Razor blade
15W Soldering iron – Thanks Dad
Lead free solder – Maplin
Electrical tape – wilkos
Satin finish black spray paint - wilkos
Optional but gets the job done
Fluxing pen – Maplin
Solder mop – Maplin
Masking tape
I started by disassembling and gutting a wireless PS3 pad. Then strip and tin the ends of all your wires
PRO TIP: get as thin wire as you can find, i had been using a horribly thick 0.3 wire from maplin which kept disconnecting from the soldering points, id been using superglue to secure the solder and then have to burn the glue off when i found out it wasnt making contact properly. The nasty chemicals and heat literally burnt my first board. away and the fumes are horrendous! This all changed once i used finer wire. It was so easy to solder!
PRO TIP 2: use a 15W soldering iron, this is a low heat for a soldering iron, it will stop your solder from getting too liquid and will cool quicker while you’re holding the fiddly wires.
PRO TIP 3: use a fluxing pen if you prefer to help create a more adhesive bond to beween points
On the board you should see where the digital pad and button contacts are just by the shape. There is usually two small copper areas where normally when you press a button on a joypad the button makes contact between these two points. So what i did was solder one end of the wire to one of the two contacts to one end of a microswitch and the other end of the microswitch to the other copper contact, this will allow the microswitch to complete the circuit
Rinse and repeat x as many microswitches you have for the joystick and buttons, I usually had street fighter training mode on while soldering to check the buttons and stick were functioning as expected after every succesful solder.

I obtained a HRAP3 template from srk shoryuken.com which can be found here: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=164245
I bought a cheap 99p picture frame from wikos and removed the mdf back panel and superglued this onto the bottm of the dvd container lid to give it some needed depth for mounting the joystick. The happ buttons are screw in not snap in so depth didnt really affect them. I used the HRAP template and dremelled the holes through the mdf and case.
I undermounted the joystick with 4 countersunk nuts and bolts so they would sit flush with the top surface. I added two more push to make switches for start and select and a bigger one for the PS Home guide button, they all sit in the top right corner. The free 3rd party joypad pcb had a on/off switch as it requires batteries and does not charge like an official ps3 pad via usb. (I didnt want to risk ruining an official £35 pad on my first go!) So i rewired the contacts to another switch on the right hand side to allow me turn the stick on.

Next up on a trip down to London to see my folks i had the chance to finish spraying off the top panel satin black (i had an Akuma theme in mind…) And with that put the whole thing back together


And there we have it – Sanwa JLF Wireless PS3 Stick, is probably much cheaper than the MadCatz TE sticks but took some hardcore modding work to get it to where it is now, Next step is some art i think. Stay tuned. And any comments appreciated!
